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Are there benefits in reloading your own ammunition?
The short answer is yes, there are loads of benefits in reloading your own ammunition. The two main benefits I find are cuts to your ammunition costs and increased accuracy.
What exactly is reloading?
I am glad you asked. Reloading is simply the process of loading a cartridge or shotgun shell by assembling the individual components such as case, primer, powder, and projectiles, instead of purchasing factory loaded ammunition.
The reloading process is actually quite simple once you know how, it is simply resizing the cartridge, priming the cartridge case, adding your powder to the case, and seating the projectile in the case.
What do you need to start reloading?
What you need will depend on what caliber you intend on reloading. The basic stuff you will need I have listed below.
Dies: Reloading dies are the cartridge-specific tools used for resizing, flaring, bullet seating, and crimping. They’re screwed into the top of the reloading press and set at specific depths to give the exacting dimensions needed for proper functioning ammunition.
Press: The simplest type of press is the single stage reloading press. This press holds one die at a time, typically has a very rigid frame, and is most used for rifle reloading.
Shell Holder: Each cartridge that is being reloaded needs to have the appropriate shell holder. The shell holder is specifically designed for the thickness, diameter and taper of the rim of the case and the thickness of the extractor groove.
Powder: The type of powder you need will depend on the cartridge you are reloading
Powder Scales: A powder scale is a must. These types of scales are measure the exact grains being used, this is very important when dealing with gun powder.
Projectiles (bullet): The size and weight of the projectile will again depend on the calibre being reloaded. If you are reloading a .223 you bullet diameter will be .224. The weight of the bullet is measured in grains.
Primers: Basically, the primer is what ignites the gun powder once it is struck. The type of primer will depend on the calibre being reloaded.
Cartridge: The empty shell that will hold the gun powder, primer, and projectile.
Or there is a simple and cheap solution instead of buy a press and dies. You can purchase Lee Loader kits. They are basic reloading kits that you can take with you on a hunting trip. The kits have everything you need and are only around the size of a book, so very compact. I really like them and have 3 different sets.
Once you have decided on caliber ammunition you will be reloading, then you can work out what powder, projectile and primer works best for you. Each powder has a slightly different burn rate so not every powder will give you the same result. The things to consider are power type, powder amount (grains), projectile weight and type (GR) and primer. Currently I am reloading my 223, below are the specs for my reloads.
Rifle: Howa 1500 Sporter 223 – 1 in 8 Twist Barrel
Power Type: ADI 2219
Powder amount: 22 grain.
Grain Projectile: 55GR Zmax 22 Cal .224
I know with the above loads I can shoot out to 100m and have my grouping at 0.2 inch. That’s not 100% perfect, and it could come down to movement between shots, but for my hunting that is still a very accurate shot. The above specs I use for my reloading has come from trial and error with different amounts of grain. I have found this is what works for me with 55GR projectiles.
Overall I find reloading to be a very cost effective method with each reload being roughly 50% the cost of factory ammunition. It also provides me with the peace of mind knowing that each shot should have the accuracy of the last.
If you are using ADI powders, ADI has a great data file with their recommendations on projectile grain and powder GR combinations for you caliber size . http://www.adiworldclass.com.au/data-rifle
